THE EAGLE

After crossing the bridge from the Southbank of London, I hopped on a double-decker bus and headed down the road, looking eagerly out the window in anticipation of what I had come all this way for: to eat at the world's first gastropub, The Eagle. There are no signs to recognize this establishment as historical, or even any markers that this corner pub is any different from the rest. However, if you know what The Eagle represents, you are in for quite an experience. 

THE FARE

Unlike at Tuning Fork or Kings Row, customers do not come to The Eagle expecting great presentation. Instead, great food matters most here. In London, the number of options for a patron looking for a local pub stop is endless, with one at almost every corner. Therefore, it is not the drink options that make patrons choose The Eagle, it's the family environment and unforgettable food. 

Located across from a car park on a main street in the Clerkenwell area of London, The Eagle does not stand out. One could easily pass it, and even fewer would recognize it as a gastropub. However, inside the pub is full of both friends and families on a cold, Sunday afternoon. 

I walk from the doorway to the other side of the room, locating a wall of chalkboards affixed above the main stovetop. The dining area is crowded, and there are no available seats. The bar stools at the window are taken, with patrons facing one another because of a lack of space, and so that they can hear one another better. 

As I approach the bar, looking around for a place to sit and returning my gaze to the chalkboard menu as its keeper erases enticing dishes that are no longer available, I notice a stack of cookbooks placed above eye level, a reminder that there is notoriety in this particular establishment as the first gastropub. 

This routine continues three times before I order my lunch; I look for a seat, stare back at the chalkboards as another option that piques my interest is replaced with a dish that sounds equally enticing, and then let my gaze wander to the less active side of the bar. I spot piled books, a collection of interesting glassware, and whole bottles of wine that are available for those wanting more than a glass. Curious, I look to the dining area once more, where I find a man sitting alone with his newspaper and a bottle of wine. I can't tell what he is eating, but I can make out a fork and knife in each hand. I look back at the menu, trying to see if I can figure out what he ordered.  

Lamb chops, Mutton and Dates Taginé, one of the daily soup offerings, tapas.

I determine that whatever he has ordered has since been erased, just as one of the dishes I plan to order is erased, as well. 

I approach the left side of the bar where a friendly woman who doubles as both bartender and server asks for my order. I decide on the squash and sage risotto, whilst my friend orders The Eagle steak sandwich, which I trust will be delicious considering it carries the establishment's name. At £8 and £10.75 respectively, the dishes are reasonable in price. 

We stand for a few minutes longer near the bar area before our bartender/server confirms two open seats along the window are empty. Another woman comes to pick up the soiled dishes and we sit down. Moments later, she returns and brings silverware and condiments that have been placed in a wicker bread basket. 

When our food arrives, I'm less than impressed. Risotto is not usually the most beautiful of dishes, but this rendition looks more like gruel than anything remotely tasty. I apprehensively take a bite of my squash and sage risotto, and regret my doubts. "This is delicious," I mumble. Rich chunks of squash juxtapose the succulent aroma of sage, whilst a seemingly thorough integration of cheese envelops each bite. I'm in risotto heaven, and I've only just begun. Each bite introduces a more impactful flavor, until I cannot eat any more. The dish is filling, rich and full of so much flavor that you are somewhat overwhelmed, surprisingly, considering the lackluster appearance. 

In contrast, The Eagle steak sandwich shines with fresh, crisp lettuce and onions as a bed for tender beef on a toasted bun, dripping with sauce from the meat. As a first impression, the dish looks more appealing than the risotto, and I'm surprised with the size of both the sandwich and its parts, especially the large helping of meat. While the sandwich tastes good, it is not anything spectacular and I'm left curious as to why the gastropub chose that dish as the signature. I taste a few bites, but decide that it is best to stick with my original dish, and I am glad I made a choice more fitting with my personal preferences. 

What the dishes at The Eagle lack in presentation, they make up for in quantity and taste. These are neither standard British-sized dishes, nor are they standard pub fare. Instead, you find yourself taken aback by comfort food elevated to a gourmet level.

DÉCOR

Beyond the green awnings and table benches outside, two doors read “Saloon” and “Bar.” These doors work in the same fashion as those found in an old saloon, swinging on hinges and pushed from the gold plates at the center; perhaps they look a bit more country western than English pub. Nevertheless, you walk inside to a crowded room with a bar along the back wall, tables in the middle, and tufted leather couches for extra seating. Along the perimeter of the pub, windows offer views of passing cars and pedestrians, although they are few and far between--this isn’t a heavily populated area on this particular Sunday.

Patrons can grab a seat on the bar benches with a view to the exterior and heaters below to keep cold legs warm. On a rainy day like today, in the midst of one of London’s coldest winters, the coat rack at the front door is much appreciated and well used. Despite the weather, Sundays in London call for what’s known as Sunday dinner -- or in the case of a 1 p.m. meal, Sunday lunch.

There is not a single seat available for patrons looking for a “proper” sit-down meal, but there is the option of sitting at the bar if you don't mind the crowd of people standing around, waiting to order drinks and food from the staff behind the bar.

But stand to the side, or order a drink while you wait, and within minutes you are sure to find a seat open up. Keep an eye out for available spots near the doors, but don’t expect the two tufted couches to become available, as these are taken by large groups of friends meeting for a casual Sunday and not quick eaters.

The inside is loud like any standard pub, full of people talking and laughing, and even the occasional crying baby-- but don't come to The Eagle expecting to hear the chants of loud football fans. This definitely marks more of a restaurant than corner pub, and everything from the food to the atmosphere proves it. 

159 Farringdon Road, London EC1R 3AL United Kingdom | +44 20 7837 1353