THE PROJECT

The Eagle, regarded as the world’s first gastropub, was nothing more than the average corner pub in London until the early 1990s, when the owners transformed the menu from stereotypical British pub food to  focus on gastronomy and an emphasis on quality ingredients. 

According to an article penned by Chris Stevenson for The Independent, David Eyre and Mike Belben came up with the idea in 1991 when they “[took] over the Eagle pub in Clerkenwell, London. Eyre later says: ‘I am always and continually bemused as to why the Eagle was regarded as a radical idea. We took an obvious idea and gave it a twist.'” That twist spurred countless restaurateurs all over the world to market their businesses as gastropubs, leaving much to be interpreted as to what that actually meant.

Susan Taylor wrote in her piece for the Chicago Tribune titled, "Gastronomy + Beer = Gastropub" that "the term 'gastropub,' however, was not used by the Eagle's owners but rather coined in the mid-'90s by a London magazine." 

Regardless of where it is or how it is defined, the gastropub is a place where people go to connect with one another over food and drinks in a casual setting; the universal understanding of pub culture is that it allows people to unite over common interests. The principle notion, however, is that gastropubs incorporate excellent cuisine (gastro- from gastronomy, or the science of food) and exceptional wine and beer (-pub from public houses) in a casual location.  

The idea to incorporate better, fresher ingredients and focus on the food, or gastronomy, inside pubs elevated the status of these corner stops tremendously. No one went to the pub for fine dining, or even good food before this. Instead, the pub was a place for respite or recreation with friends and family, where you could find "comfort food" like fish and chips, shepherd's pie and crisps--but not if you expected high-quality ingredients.

But what makes more sense than to relax with a cold pint and a good meal? Nearly 23 years later, gastropubs are still popping up everywhere, from London to across the pond in New York’s grub culture at places like The Spotted Pig, and even here in Los Angeles, with the level of expectation for excellence at gastropubs consistently on the rise. 

However, are these Tinseltown gastropubs living up to the original? In a city focused on the aesthetics, do gastropubs offer a uniquely L.A. vibe to these otherwise British-bred establishments? And does a pub with good food have to be called a gastropub to be one? How does the gastropub work in a city like Los Angeles, where presentation of both food and establishment is key? 

THE BREW: Gastropub Culture in Los Angeles aims to identify central themes within L.A. gastropub culture by looking at two of Los Angeles' most popular gastropubs in comparison to London's The Eagle, with the help of patrons and the expert opinions of those in the industry.