KINGS ROW
From the outdoor beer garden to the British food offerings like fish and chips and naan, Kings Row Gastropub in Pasadena, California proves that a local jaunt can pay homage to its European influencers whilst maintaining the ambiance and laid-back atmosphere expected in Southern California.
FOOD
I started my gastronomic journey at Kings Row with the brussels sprouts. As a brussels sprouts aficionado, I was excited to see how a gastropub rendered the dish. However, I soon became worried, since the chef paired my favorite cabbage with my least favorite vegetable: beets. The beets are smoked, and provide a glaze to the sprouts, in addition to the flavors of shallots and thyme. I was pleased, surprisingly, and I took it as a good sign that my first taste at Kings Row could encourage me to eat beets, a food I have avoided for most of my life.
Next, I tried the pork sandy. Made with a brioche bun, and filled with barbecue pulled pork, crispy onions and house barbecue sauce, the meat was tender, sweet and spicy at the same time. The dish provided a mix of flavors that complemented each other well, and the fries--which are cut fresh each morning in house-- were delicious, too.
As I tried the next dish, I was brought back to memories of living in the United Kingdom. I tried my first "fish and chips" meal beside the boardwalk in Brighton, England whilst trying to avoid the downpour of rain before an Ed Sheeran concert. To say that experience was memorable is an understatement; so when I saw fish and chips on the menu at Kings Row I was intrigued, and leery. Luckily for anyone looking for an authentic British dish in Los Angeles, Kings Row provides a delectable approach to this notoriously greasy offering. They use only the freshest cod, a thick and juicy piece of fish, before frying it in an IPA beer batter. The chef makes his own house tartar sauce, and the dish is served with a side wedge of lemon and fries. In England, you would normally find mash peas as a side, but with such rich, fresh ingredients, there is no need to hide behind old favorites. From now on, Kings Row is the only place I will go to for fish and chips in Los Angeles.
Keeping up with the theme of traditional British fare, I tasted the house naan--Indian food is the unofficial national cuisine of England. Stuffed with cheese, this naan is both flaky and doughy, with just the right consistency and packed with bold flavors that, literally, melt in your mouth. I'm told that the chef, who happens to be of northern Indian descent, has made naan on the side of two Tandoor ovens owned by the gastropub during outdoor events. However, he can also produce just as great tasting naan in a skillet on the grill.
I contrast the heavy dishes I've been eating with a taste of the market salad. It is made with fennel, roasted beets, orange, walnuts, goat cheese, mixed greens and a lemon thyme vinaigrette. The citrus from the fruit and dressing taste fresh against the cold leafy greens. There is a good lettuce to cheese to citrus ratio, and each bite is full of flavor without being too overpowering.
To keep their menu playful, Kings Row Gastropub has created an interesting dessert using childhood favorites. The crunchy berry cookie sandy combines Cap'n Crunch cereal to create a cookie base, then uses chocolate milk ice cream as a filling, before topping off with fresh whipped cream and berries. While the uniqueness of the dish captivates my attention, I'm left less than impressed. The cookie has the crunch and taste of the cereal, but resembles more of a hard cookie than an ice cream sandwich. However, everything else about the dish is perfectly executed; the chocolate milk ice cream tastes like chocolate milk and the whipped cream is light and airy without being too sweet.
DRINKS
While I enjoy a good alcoholic beverage, I am by no means a "beer expert." However, James Willis is just that. With his help, I was able to taste a number of beverages at Kings Row that widened my palette, and piqued my interest about what other beers I just may like to try next time.
When asked what beers I usually drink, I provided a humorous, "well, I enjoy a good Angry Orchard." Though the Samuel Adams sibling is available on tap at the gastropub, Willis suggested I taste Eve's Apple instead. Made with meletti, apple brandy, cinnamon and Angry Orchard, this cocktail is more spiced cider than cidre, and made for an excellent introduction to the cocktail menu at Kings Row ($11).
Next, Willis brought over three small shot glasses full of fireball whiskey, which I am then told is a special blend made in-house, and in true pub fashion we "cheers" and down our drinks. I'm expecting a much spicier punch than the cinnamon kick from my first drink, but am left pleasantly surprised by how smooth the stereotypically spicy beverage goes down my throat.
The standout of the day, however, was when Willis displayed his talent as a certified cicerone. He suggested I do a tasting menu of four beverages, especially since I did not have a favorite beer to begin with. I warned him that beers weren't my favorite beverage, so four of them sounded a bit daunting, but I gave him my preferences (light, not too malty, a bit sweet) and he returned with four beautiful amber-colored brews on a tasting board. Though three of the beers were somewhat lost amongst my brew naiveté, one stood out from the rest. My favorite of the tasting menu was the Brasserie Dupont Avec Les Bons Voeux. A bottled beer, this brew is a bit more expensive at $22, but Willis assured me it is on his menu because it is a great tasting beer. It was slightly sweeter than the other beers, and reminded me of fruit beers I've tried in the past, which explains a lot more about my palette for beers.
The final three beers were all from California breweries. El Segundo and Smog City, two of the three, are local breweries in El Segundo and Torrance, respectively.
I tried the Smog City Lil Bo Pilsner ($6) and the El Segundo Power Plant ($11), and both were nice, robust tastes with a number of different flavors. I'm surprised I like them, considering my affinity for sweeter beverages, and impressed with their beautiful color.
Next, I tried my last beer for the day: the Knee Deep Hoptologist Double IPA ($12). This brew smelled like a strong beer, and tasted heavier than the rest. I could pick up the malt grain flavor much more distinctly than I could with the other three, and although I can see why beer lovers would prefer the bitter notes in this beer, it was not my favorite.
My experience with the tasting menu allowed me to see beer in a different perspective. Just as you are particular about how you like your steak cooked, you should be particular about how you like your beer. There is not a standard beer option, and just as Willis points out, it is much more rewarding to find a great fermented beverage you really appreciate and enjoy drinking. I walked away with an interest in learning more about beers until I find the perfect brew for my palette. Furthermore, I now look at beers at a different scale. For example, what is the color of the beer, how does it smell, how much foam is there; questions that help me understand more about the beer's make up.
Over the course of my next few visits, I taste a Moscow Mule--which doesn't come in its traditional Old-Dutch copper mug, but instead, is served in a highball glass.
I also tried the Old Town Root Beer, which is made with root liquor, gin, lemon juice, heavy cream and egg whites. It doesn't taste anything like I was expecting, and the egg whites creates a creamy froth on top that reminds me of a root beer float with a much heavier base. The mix of root liquor and gin reminds me of a ginger ale, but with less ginger and more of an italian soda essence. It wasn't my favorite, but I did like it and would order it again.
And just because a trip to the pub wouldn't be complete without my favorite drink, I manage to order an Angry Orchard Apple Cider. Although it may be "too fruity" for some and more of a juice than alcohol, it is a delicious crowd pleaser.
DÉCOR
Along Old Pasadena’s busiest street, Colorado Boulevard, there is a gastropub tucked away between a watch shop and a gelato stand. Recognizable by its jovial pig marquee sign and twinkle lights, patrons walk down a long corridor before reaching the entrance to the gastropub. At the door of the pub, the glass door reads, “May your glass be ever full. May the roof over your head be always strong. And may you be in Heaven half an hour before the devil knows you’re dead.” An old Irish saying, this quote resonates with the mantra of Kings Row Gastropub and all of its employees. They are educated about their craft, but also helpful, enthusiastic and kind-hearted. As I get to know the gastropub, its family of employees and its patrons, I learn that this feeling of community and equality starts at the top of the business, and works its way down.
The first thing I notice about the main bar area is the view. Across the room from the entrance, there is an open pass-through with views to the gastropub’s gem: the beer garden. The open area frames the outdoor space and lets in sunlight from outside. Once you get over how beautiful and unique it is, there is much more to be appreciated.
To the left, there is a music player where patrons can control the tunes when the gastropub doesn’t have live performers. Encasing the area, there are a number of beer signs, beverage posters and even a bicycle. Most of the walls are red brick, contrasted with the chalkboard menus found along the backside of two walls and against a staircase. Using white, blue and yellow chalk, the menus are split up, displaying food, whiskey, scotch, draught beer and wine, bottled beers, craft cocktails and classics separately. If printed, the extensive list of offerings may seem intimidating, but posted high above eye level, these ginormous boards offer a challenge to the inquisitive customer. High tables line the main bar area with wooden counters and bar stools around them. There’s a small metal pail with silverware and napkins atop a stack of small white plates, and a poster card with upcoming events along every few seats.
Just like The Eagle in London, Kings Row Gastropub does not have traditional servers. While I am there, a man comes in and asks for a job application. He has just relocated from Baltimore where he worked as a bartender, and hopes to gain employment at Kings Row in Pasadena. The bartender behind the bar says, “Just so you know, we don’t have waiters. It’s just bartenders,” motioning his hands as if to infer that the job entails more than skills behind the bar. The term bartender already renders the image of both service provider and confidante, and the longer I am at Kings Row, the more I see there is truth in that; one gentleman, roughly in his thirties, stopped by and said he wanted a drink before work. And that was at 11am.
By 2pm the bar is filled with customers, both young and old. A group of guys congregate at the bar, interested in trying new-to-them brews, while a couple takes their time to decide what to order for lunch as they sit on the high bar stools at the table. These patrons, both the ones referred to by name and the ones who have never been here before, are each treated the same. At Kings Row, the atmosphere and vibe is one in which everyone is equal, and everyone is welcome.
Two large glass doors lead to the back bar space, which has the same table layout as the front room, but with a smaller corner bar and a number of “pub games” and arcade machines. The space also functions as a venue for live music nights.
The alternative entrance inside the pub is from the back courtyard. Guests can walk down the paved alley and enter the lush beer garden, with dark wood tables and light, maple-colored chairs and heating lamps for cooler evenings. The space is a popular destination year-round, especially amongst those who like to go out at night in Old Pasadena. After sitting outside for only a few minutes, you will feel like you’re in Germany, drinking pints with true beer connoisseurs.
20 East Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena CA 91105 | 626.793.3010 | kingsrowpub.com
Twitter: @kingsrowpub | Instagram: @kingsrowpub | Facebook: Kings Row Gastropub